If there’s one thing you can always count on from me – it’s that whenever I go somewhere new, I immediately begin looking for the best spots to eat in town.
And no, I’m not talking about the trendy Instagram restaurants.
I mean the spots that only the locals know about, the hidden gems, the award-winning slow food spots – THESE are the places that I’m always down to try. And Bologna was no different.
Now, we were in town for a wedding – which, if you’ve never been to an Italian wedding before, they’re a very unique experience – and we were only in Bologna for a couple of days. This meant that we needed to pack a lot of good food in a short period of time.
Challenge accepted.
Where to eat in Bologna
These are the spots that we couldn’t resist trying, and the stops on our list for our next trip back to Bologna.
Trattoria Del Rosso
Trattoria Del Rosso was our dinner spot for our last night in Bologna. It’s a super rustic, but incredibly run trattoria – right beneath the “portici” or the porticos that you can see all through the city. If you’ve spent a day exploring, it’s a super close walk from the spot where you can see the only canal left in Bologna.
What we ordered:
- Moma Rossi (Umberto Cesari)
- Fried Gnocchi & Salumi with Squacquerone
- Cotoletta alla Bolognese (deep-fried veal steak with prosciutto di parma and parmigiano fondue)
- Tortelloni (with asparagus and saffron creme, balsamic vinegar and taralli crumble)
- Amaro del Capo (digestivo)
- Braulio (digestivo)
*A quick sidenote: the digestivi are essential after super heavy meals. Thank me later.
Vito San Lucca
Vito San Lucca was a quick stop after we took the express train up to the sanctuary of San Lucca, which just so happens to be the highest point in the city. AND entirely connected to the city itself by 666 arches of portici. What was supposed to be a quick coffee stop turned into a lunch with plenty of wine and butter – which, as far as I’m concerned, is the best kind of lunch there is!
What we ordered:
- Aperitivo (little salty snacks, Campari soda and franciacorta)
- Ravioli al limone, burro e salvia (lemon, butter & sage)
- Passatelli con crema di parmigiano e crudo croccante (parmigiano cream and crunchy bacon)
- Rosso & rose della casa
Agriturismo Rioverde
Tucked into i colli bolognese (the hills of Bologna), Agriturismo Rioverde is a short 20-minute drive away from the city. It feels like you’re driving through a movie scene on the way there, with plenty of hairpin turns and cliffs to keep your adrenaline pumping.
As you walk in, it almost feels like a fairytale – surrounded by the woods and a stone house, plenty of string lights, and the smell of mouthwatering food in the air. Mauro and I stayed for an aperitivo with a large group of friends and family, and let me tell you this – I was eating with my stomach AND my eyes that night. Not only did the food taste good, but it was BEAUTIFUL too.
What we ordered:
- Vecchia Modena Lambrusco
- Aperol Spritz
- Fire-roasted tomatoes and garlic in oil
- Patate al forno (oven-roasted potatoes with rosemary and sage)
- Salumi and cheese
- Local honey
- Grilled vegetables
- Local sourdough boule
La Galezza
La Galezza is a small farm in i colli bolognese that specializes in lavender, olive oil and purple artichokes. We didn’t make it this trip, but it’s high on our list for our next stop in Bologna. One of the most popular ways to experience La Galezza is with a sunset dinner, that will allow you to watch the sun go down over the Sanctuary of San Lucca. If you’re looking for a night straight out of a 2000’s rom-com, this is it.
Antica Hosteria Rocca di Badolo
Antica Hosteria Rocca di Badolo was high on our list – but we ran out of time. They pride themselves by sharing cuisine and flavors local to the Apennines, with a bit of flare – of course. Here, you’ll find plates designed with mushrooms and truffles in mind, local game and cheeses – and if that doesn’t already have your mouth watering (mine is as I write this), their wine list is to die for.
I can’t wait to try this place the next time we’re back.
A short drive away: try this award-winning trattoria in Modena
If you have enough time, you could make the 30-minute drive to the neighboring city of Modena. It’s quite similar to Bologna – except that Modena has one extra bucket.
Don’t ask – I don’t get it either. Apparently, it’s an old joke.
Trattoria Ermes
Trattoria Ermes is incredibly well-known for its award-winning slow food.
Slow food is (obviously) the complete opposite of fast food, but basically what the term references are communities that produce local and high-quality foods. The concept was founded in Italy in 1986 – and it aims to ensure everyone has access to good, clean, and fair-trade food. In Ermes’ case, only a select amount of traditional dishes are available each day. And if you miss the timeslot for any of them, you miss out.
It’s safe to say that we needed to try a little bit of everything. From fried gnocchi and salumi to tortellini in broth or butter and sage, steak tagliata to squacquerone cheese – every bite tasted like a dream on a plate. The cherry on top was the housemade Lambrusco wine, slightly tart and a total crowdpleaser.
There are so many incredible places to eat in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. It’s one of my favorites for food in the country – because you’ll find a beautiful mix of modern tactics and traditional flavors. If you haven’t been already, it’s definitely worth a visit.
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